Cabbage Key sits just off Pine Island near Cayo Costa State Park, tucked along a stretch of Gulf coastline that feels surprisingly wild.
Getting There is Part of the Experience
You can take a water taxi from Pine Island for $38 each way, which is what we did. The boat ride out feels like a reset, the mainland steadily shrinking behind you, dolphins occasionally surfacing in the boat’s wake, other boaters smiling and waving.
If you prefer more freedom, you can rent your own boat on Pine Island and cruise out independently. Several of Cabbage Key’s waterfront cottages have private docks, so pulling up “home” for the weekend by boat feels entirely natural. One word of caution: Pine Island Sound is notoriously shallow in several spots, so if you’re not comfortable captaining a boat in open water, this may not be the best place to try it out. Another option is booking a tour out of Fort Myers, but most are actual *tours* rather than water taxis, so they’re pricier and involve at least half a day.
Photo by Taryn Shorr-Mckee – Only In Your State
One Inn. One Restaurant. No Competition Necessary.
Photo by Taryn Shorr-Mckee – Only In Your State
The same family has run Cabbage Key Inn & Restaurant since the 1970s, and it shows. It’s welcoming without being flashy, an authentic marriage of Southern hospitality and island time.
Jimmy Buffett made the restaurant famous, allegedly inspiring his iconic hit “Cheeseburger in Paradise.” It’s not at all a stretch to say many, maybe even most, day-trippers come specifically to try it. We didn’t, though. Instead, we brought in snook and trout that we caught on a half-day fishing charter. The kitchen happily prepares it to your liking and lists it on the menu as “Your Catch of the Day.” Other standouts for us were the smoked fish dip, stone crab claws, and the unique frozen icebox-style key lime pie. Instead of a traditional graham cracker crust, this pie is the old-school custardy kind.
Photo by Taryn Shorr-Mckee – Only In Your State
Inside the Dollar Bill Bar (which, ironically, is actually the restaurant side), thousands of—you guessed it—signed dollar bills cover the walls and ceiling. This beloved tradition goes back decades, and it’s a fun, unexpectedly sentimental experience to read some of the messages and dates.
What You Actually Do on a Private 100-Acre Island
Here’s the honest answer: not a whole lot. And that’s why you come here.
There’s a short nature trail circling the island, shaded in parts and quiet enough that you hear every rustle in the brush. The island’s resident gopher tortoises roam freely, often responsible for those rustles and typically congregating on the lawn in front of the restaurant.
Photo by Taryn Shorr-Mckee – Only In Your State
One of Cabbage Key’s more exciting adventures is climbing the water tower for sunset. At the top of the stairs, 360-degree views await. The surrounding Gulf glows pink and gold as the sun dips lower, birds fish and land, boats head back toward Pine Island, leaving soft V-shaped ripples behind them.
We spent long stretches just sitting on our dock watching boats come and go, hoping to spot manatees or dolphins. We saw both (just one manatee, dozens of dolphins). Tarpon roll just offshore at certain times of year, mostly May and June, and local guides take folks out to target them specifically.
What surprised me most was how quickly our nervous systems seemed to recalibrate. Like most modern families, our day-to-day is overscheduled and a million miles a minute. By day two here, I was barely checking my phone. By day three, my husband completely lost track of his.
Stay Longer Than Lunch
Photo by Taryn Shorr-Mckee – Only In Your State
Technically, you can see all of Cabbage Key in a single day—maybe even a half-day. Many (most) people do. They boat over, eat a cheeseburger, have a few Cabbage Creepers, snap a photo of the dollar-bill-covered bar, and head back before sunset.
I wouldn’t recommend that, though. Overnight guests stay in historic inn rooms or stunning, almost shockingly spacious waterfront cottages, many with private docks. After the last day-trippers leave, the island noticeably shifts. The lawn empties. It’s so quiet that you notice the sound of the water lapping against boats. The docks become all yours.
Florida is full of almost palpable energy, with its theme parks, packed beaches, and nightlife. There’s nothing wrong with that, but Cabbage Key stands as a reminder of what existed before. No roads, no rush. No curated “experiences.” Just open water, sky, fishing lines, and a family-run inn that’s been doing things the same way for decades.
If you’re looking for late nights or luxury spas, this isn’t your place. But if you want to slow down, eat fish you caught yourself, watch the sun drop into the Gulf with nowhere else to be, and remember what stillness actually feels like, book the boat.
And stay the night.
This article By Taryn Shorr-Mckee, originally appeared on AOL.